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Heritage Preserving
Traditional preservation does not actually include canning, but we have included it here, because of the value for preserving seasonal harvests in a simple to use manner.
- We DRY a lot of foods. This is probably the most common traditional preservation method, being used for fruits, vegetables, and meats, and naturally occurring with grains, nuts, and legumes. We don't freeze dry, it is neither economical, nor efficient, and we simply do not have the time or money to fuss with it.
- We FREEZE a lot of foods. Also a traditional method, freezing was used by northern civilizations to store some foods through the winter.
- We COOL STORE some foods. The traditional is a root cellar. We use a basement, or a refrigerator, and sometimes a front or back porch area. Appropriate for potatoes, apples, cabbages, squash, onions, and other similar crops, and for smoked or cured meats.
- We CURE, PICKLE, or CULTURE some foods. Traditionally this is why we have pickles, kraut, cheese, ham, sausage, and other foods that are treated with salt or aged in a way that encourages beneficial microbial growth.
- We SMOKE some foods, in combination with drying or curing. Another longstanding traditional preservation method.
- We DO SOME oil or fat pack foods, but are careful about what we do, because some either do not store long enough to be worth the trouble, or they have too high a risk of deadly peripheral contamination to be worth it.
- We CAN many foods, a lot of them pressure canned, for quick fix, grab and go meals, and to make some meats more digestible (production breed meats are hard for me to digest unless the proteins are changed by cooking processes, and high heat is one thing that works). We are careful about methods used, and pay attention to nutrient loss. We use MANY "not recommended" methods, because our experiences have taught us that the government is not the only, or even the best, arbiter of safety where food is concerned! We use recommendations from around the world, and we learn the science, and figure out WHY things are tricky, and then develop methods for compensating. Our food is good, it is safe, and it is a huge benefit to us every day.
People have been preserving and storing food for as long as they have been eating food. Healthy food preservation is part skill, and part art, but once you get going on it, it really ISN'T all that hard!
Differences Between a Freeze Dryer and a Dehydrator
The dehydrator can dry many foods, but there are certain ones that don't work well. A freeze dryer can dry those foods, but it is a more complex process. These foods include strawberries, blackberries and raspberries, and a few others which simply do better freeze dried instead of dehydrated.
Information for this article has been gathered from the manufacturer website, home freeze dryer users, and from other sources for general food storage and freeze drying facts. We find that user experiences do not match the manufacturers's claims in many instances, actual user experiences are not nearly as optimistic. This is common, manufacturer data tends to be based on ideal situations, whereas users are often operating in less than ideal circumstances.
A dehydrator shrinks the foods when drying them. The freeze dryer retains them at close to the normal size. So dehydration is a more compact storage method, freeze drying is just lighter in weight but does not save space.
A dehydrator is a simple piece of equipment. It has a fan and a heater. The more complex ones have a timer and temperature control. You can get one that will work really well for about $40. Some people spend more - but I have not been able to find a reason to do so, other than wanting one in stainless, or needing white plastic instead of transparent plastic (which off-gasses less and irritates my lungs less), because the cheap ones worked just as well as the expensive ones (I have used many kinds), as long as they have a fan in them. A decent sized one (with 5-7 trays) will do 5-10 lbs of food, depending on how it is cut and how it is organized. I can do 10 lbs of apples easily in a 6 tray model.
A freeze dryer is a complicated piece of equipment. A small one is about the size of a washing machine (Ok, so they have smaller models now, but not a lot smaller, and they all have an external pump that is pretty good sized that you have to have room for also), but the drying chamber is about the size of your average small dehydrator (it can process 5-15 lbs of food, depending on the size of the unit, according to the manufacturer). It takes a LOT of space for the amount of food you get out of it. It is more complicated to use, and FAR more costly. They are finally down to around $1500 for those small ones (thousands more for bigger ones), they may or may not come down more, because they are simply a complex piece of equipment.
A dehydrator requires no maintenance, and very little in the way of troubleshooting. They are simple to operate, simple to clean up, simple to figure out how to adjust. You generally have an on-off switch. Some have timers, some have heat settings. That is as complicated as it gets.
A freeze dryer is a different thing entirely. It requires maintenance after every load, requires oil and frequent oil changes, has multiple parts and complex settings, gaskets that fail, filters to maintain. Parts break down regularly, or need replacement for maintenance regularly. It operates with a computer panel with multiple settings to adjust, and if things are not set properly, the cycle does weird things. There is a learning curve, and if you don't adjust and work things correctly, it can get messy (as in, oil leaks, or misting oil out of the pump vent - report is that the newer ones don't have the misting problem). Troubleshooting a batch that didn't dry well is a common occurrence, and involves some knowledge of what went wrong, and how to adjust to compensate.
A dehydrator is fairly economical to use. The heating element does not use a lot of electricity, nor does the fan. Foods dry typically overnight, or in 24 hours for high moisture foods.
A freeze dryer can take 72 hours per batch (generally takes more than 1 day), and uses freezing, vacuuming, heating, and fans - it can run through multiple repetitive cycles of freezing and drying for a single batch. It uses more energy to operate, and each cycle is quite a bit longer. Enough that if you are running the thing with back to back loads for weeks (many people do), you are going to see the difference in your electric bill (the Harvest Right company lists operational costs at about $1.20 to almost $3 per day in energy usage - multiply that by the number of days you think you'd use it per year, and remember that many things take more than 1 day). Many people pre-freeze the food, to shorten the cycles, and if you do that, you always need to have room in your freezer for the trays also. The company says that the unit notifies you when the food is done, but reports from users suggest this feature is far from perfect, and troubleshooting is a common occurrence.
A dehydrator has a small fan that produces some noise. It can be in operation anywhere in the house and not be a disruption.
A freeze dryer is fairly noisy. According to Harvest Right (the maker of home freeze dryers), it is as loud as a "noisy dishwasher". You are going to want to have a place to put it where the noise will not bother you.
Dehydrated foods rehydrate fairly predictably. They rehydrate better with hot water, and are easy to rehydrate during cooking time just by adding extra water to a recipe.
For the most part, freeze dried foods also rehydrate predictably, except there are some foods that just don't rehydrate well. Some foods that people WANT a freeze dryer for (mac and cheese, for example) do NOT rehydrate very well if they have much sauce on them. They have this kind of funky styrofoam and glue thing going on. The outside absorbs moisture, and thickens up so much that it prevents moisture from getting to the inside. So the outside is saucy, then gluey, and then the inside is still crunchy or stiff and clumpy. Even commercial producers struggle with this issue. So Yeah, you CAN freeze dry some things that you would not generally dehydrate, but the end results are not exactly what you wanted.
A dehydrator has a heating element, and a fan, and sometimes a time or temp control. Those are fairly simple, and you don't really have an issue with parts needing replaced. It is simpler and cheaper to just replace the unit, and since you can get a good one for under $100, if it has to be replaced every 10 years or so, it is no big deal.
A freeze dryer has a LOT of parts to malfunction. And according to users, they do.And they are not cheap to replace. A LOT of people are giving positive reviews right after they buy, and updating later to say they are having a lot of problems. The machines wear parts - I don't know all the parts that are involved, but there are some that regularly need replaced, others that wear and break on a high percentage of units, and some that just wear out under high use, or that are flaky under certain situations (climate, usage types, etc). This is one of the top reasons for dissatisfaction.
The argument is made that freeze dried foods store for 15 to 20 years. Some do, some do not. Higher fat foods won't store as long. I've seen (and eaten) freeze dried foods after 20 years. The color has paled, the flavor has gone stale or bitter, and some of them no longer rehydrate as well as they do when they are fresh. Very similar to dehydrated foods, but the dehydrated foods that I've used after long term storage have actually been in better condition.
Dehydrated foods store just as well, and for just as long, but take WAY less space. Those foods that do not dehydrate well do well with other preservation methods - berries generally can well or are wonderful in jams, preserves, and syrup, and they can be made into leathers and used in many ways.
I've also eaten home canned foods that were 20 years old (we look for color changes and texture changes, as well as indications of spoilage - where there are no significant indications of the food breaking down, it is safe to eat - storage conditions radically affect storage life), and they were in as good condition as the freeze dried foods, sometimes better. Storing home preserved foods in a cool, dry, and dark environment will dramatically increase storage life, whether you dry, can, or freeze dry, and storage conditions generally have a greater affect on storage life than the method you choose.
Dehydrated foods rehydrate best with hot water, and are fully rehydrated in about 30 minutes if they are pre-cooked, longer if they are not. They CAN be rehydrated using cold water, it will take several hours, or overnight, to do it though. They are simple to use if added to meals in progress, and allowed to cook along with the fresh ingredients. Other dehydrated foods are commonly used dry for tasty snacks.
Freeze dried foods are less popular for snacks. The initial feel when you put them on your tongue, or if you chew them right away, is kind of squeaky crunchy. But they go to goo pretty fast, and don't really end up having the intense flavor of dehydrated foods, because the flavor is not concentrated. They rehydrate BEST with hot water, but can be rehydrated with cold water, and generally rehydrate faster than dehydrated foods. Thicker freeze dried foods will not rehydrate well into the center, and those with sauces will often not rehydrate well, because the outside absorbs the water, and then the sauce keeps the water from penetrating well into the center of more dense pieces of food. They have their place in emergency storage where heat is limited.
I can find no justification for the incredible cost and energy usage, and fuss and bother of a home freeze dryer. I have limited physical energy, and extremely limited finances, so I have to be very careful where I use those resources, and want to be sure that whatever I do, I am getting maximum value and results for the expenditure. Other methods of preservation are running rings around freeze drying in terms of economy and simplicity!
I heard someone say, "You can freeze dry ice cream and have ice cream all year even if you have no freezer." Well, that's just silly, of course you cannot! Freeze dried ice cream is not ice cream. It is styrofoam type candy! It is not cold. It cannot be rehydrated back into ice cream! It is just a novelty, not in any way essential or even relevant to what it started out as!
I have noticed that many people who get a freeze dryer are not doing it for practical reasons, but because they are enchanted with the idea of freeze drying everything in the house. I know many canning addicts also, who will can things just because they CAN (pun intended). I've never been that way, I want to know that my effort is necessary or beneficial, and if it is not, I do not do it! Freeze drying is too costly and time consuming for me to do just for a trendy hobby.
If you are thinking about one, I suggest you join a group on FaceBook or elsewhere for using a freeze dryer, and see whether it still sounds like a manageable thing. If so, great. If not, don't apologize, just walk away!
I used to think I wanted a freeze dryer until I heard people talking about actually using one. I no longer have any desire to own one!
Canning Tamales - Yeah!
Canning Tamales!
First, the education part. Because if you don't GET this part, you can have a disaster.
Tamales EXPAND during the canning process.
It is VERY important that you not over-fill jars, and that you pay attention to the headspace required. If you have too little headspace, the tamales will push out of the jar, either causing a lid to bulge, or causing the corn flour to escape during processing. If the corn flour pushes out of the jar, you end up with a mess in your canner, and failed seals. The seals may LOOK good, and then pop a week or two later, when you aren't paying attention, causing loss and spoilage.
Tamales need liquid, and absorb liquid during processing or cooking. So the sauce ratios need to be followed also. You start with watery stuff, you end with sauce.
If you do it right, you get nice plump tamales in a jar, with a nice chili sauce around them. If you do it wrong, you get blown lids, messy jars and canner, and no liquid on the tamales.
This is like canning dry beans. Smart people can manage it.
Canned Tamales
(I don't know EXACTLY how much it makes, I just filled the jars until I ran out of ingredients. I got four jars and a few extra tamales to cook on the stovetop to sample.)
RECOMMEND Wide Mouth Tapered 1 1/2 Pint Jars! If you use Pint jars, you have to make REALLY short tamales.
You also need EITHER Parchment paper, OR Corn Husks. Parchment paper is a little more compact, but the softer inner corn husks will also work well.
SOAK corn husks for about half an hour in warm water when you are ready to assemble the tamales.
Ingredients:
Filling:
- 1 lb beef (can be a solid piece, or chunks, whatever)
- Mild peppers (such as Anaheim or green chiles) - you need about 1, cooked and mashed
- Sprinkle of salt
Wrapper:
- 3 cups Masa Flour (find this in the Mexican Food section, it may be called Tamale Flour, you want the Corn flour not meal)
- Salt
- Chili Powder (I used about 2 tsp)
- Cayenne (optional)
- Black pepper
- Onion or garlic powders (optional)
Sauce:
- 1 cup V-8 or Tomato Juice (do NOT substitute sauce it is too thick)
- 1 cup water
- 1 tsp chili powder
- 1 tsp onion powder
- 2 shakes cumin if desired
- pinch garlic granules
- 1/2 tsp salt
Cook the beef until it is tender and pulls apart. Shred it and add the mild pepper. Toss to mix.
Put the Masa Flour in a bowl, and add about 1 tsp salt, and 1/4 tsp pepper, and the chili powder. Add a sprinkle of cayenne if you like.
Add cold WATER to make a sticky dough. It should hold together, and you should be able to spread it out flat.
NOTE: You want the Masa Dough to be STICKY, and SPREADABLE. If you can handle it or knead it like bread dough, it is TOO DRY. You should need to spread the dough with a spatula or knife, or the back of a spoon. It handles sort of like brownie batter. If it is too dry, it can cause the jar lids to pop because of the expansion of the increased flour amount.
MIX the sauce ingredients together - I used a jar so I could pour it into the canning jars.
If using Parchment Paper, CUT pieces about 6" X 6" (or a smidge larger).
Assembly:
Lay out a piece of parchment paper or a corn husk. Press out some of the dough in a rectangle about 3" X 4", in one corner of the husk (on the wide end) or paper (go 3"X3" if you are using pint jars). The dough should be about 1/4" thick, or a little less.
Put a bit of beef down the center, the long way on the paper or husk.
Roll the tamale up (so you get a 4" long tamale for larger jars, or 3" for pint jars), and fold the bottom end of the paper or husk up.
Place the tamale into the jar.
IMPORTANT!!!
Make your tamales narrow!
They need to be about 1" in diameter when finished! Do NOT go bigger! You can play around with the thickness of the dough (thinner dough) to get more meat in it if you like, but don't make a bigger tamale.
Place FOUR tamales into the jar. NO MORE! They will expand to fill the jar! There should be lots of wiggle room around them.
Make SURE that you have the FULL AMOUNT of space above the top of the tamales! This is vital!
1 1/2 Pint Jars - 2" headspace above the top of the tamales.
1 Pint Jars - 1 1/2" headspace above the top of the tamales.
They GROW! They will expand during canning, and then shrink back down just a little, you will need every bit of headspace.
FILL the jar with sauce, up to the little seam line just below the bottom lip on the jar - you need a full 1" headspace for the sauce. The tamales should be covered in sauce. (Yes, the headspace for the tamales is DIFFERENT than the headspace for the sauce.)
Process jars in a Pressure Canner, for 90 minutes for pint and a half jars, or 75 minutes for pints. Standard pressure adjusted for altitude.
If you are feeling Festive, you may press 1 olive into the meat in the middle of each tamale.
Enjoy!
WARNING!!!
DO NOT USE home milled corn flour for this! Use ONLY commercial corn masa flour. Home milled will have the germ in it, and this means YOU WILL GET PERFRINGENS food poisoning in the jars. You can SMELL it, and it does change the appearance of the food if it gets really bad, so killing yourself with it is pretty difficult to do, but you don't want to waste food this good by using an ingredient that is guaranteed to spoil.
This risk is VERY LOW for commercially milled corn flour, and EVEN WITH HOME MILLED, perfringens of this type takes about 3 months to grow sufficient to be detectable in the food, and it is NOT DANGEROUS unless it really has time to go to town on the food. This is the SAME kind of perfringens bacteria that causes Salt Rising Bread to rise, and has a cheesy odor when it is fresh, but goes to gray and nasty when it overgrows.
A Coddiwomple Farm Original Recipe!
SHORTCUT METHOD
You can use commercial frozen tamales and can them instead of homemade! Who knew?
Now, this kind of Tamale is already PARTIALLY cooked, but not fully. They are always kind of crumbly instead of firm like they should be.
They only need 1 1/2" headspace above them. They WILL grow up and out of the corn husks. They should JUST fill the jar when they are fully canned.
So...
- 6 or 8 THAWED frozen tamales (the large ones)
- 1 large can Tomato juice, seasoned as instructed above.
Put TWO tamales in each jar.
Distribute seasoned juice between them. It won't entirely fill the jars.
Add water to the bottom of the lip on the jar.
Pressure can for meat time.
Using a Pressure Canner as a Steam Canner
I only own one canner. It is a good one, a Presto 23 qt Pressure Canner, which is large enough to double decker pint jars, and even tall enough to can half gallons, or to use as a water bath canner with the actual recommended water coverage.
This canner does everything. But I don't use it as a WB canner. Too much water, too much time heating the water, more of a hassle filling the thing.
I use it as a steam canner. (For those who are unaware, steam canners ARE approved for canning in the US by "official" sources. Look it up, I don't have time to cite sources.)
A Steam Canner is used in place of a Water Bath canner. It uses hot steam, instead of hot water, to heat the jars and process them. Steam canners use the SAME TIMES as Water Bath canners. Using your Pressure Canner as a steam canner can save you the cost of the steam canner, and you can even avoid the cost of a water bath canner also if you like.
To use a pressure canner as a steam canner, follow this procedure:
1. Add 1 more quart of water to the bottom than you would add for pressure canning. For my canner, this means 4 quarts instead of 3 quarts. You need a little more water since it will steam the whole time, instead of having the steam contained. In all the times I've done it, 4 quarts has been more than enough. See the note below for cautions.
2. Put the jars in. Stack them if you want. Water does NOT need to even touch them (if you are stacking), because they will be surrounded by steam that is actually hotter than the water.
3. Put the lid on like you normally would, lock it into place.
4. Turn on the heat. I start it on high.
5. Wait until the safety latch pops up. (The safety latch will not pop up until there is sufficient steam pressure inside to lift it, and it won't do that until all the air is exhausted, so it is an accurate indicator for starting the time for steam canning, or putting the weight on for pressure canning.) If your canner does not have a safety latch, then wait until it is steaming hard through the vent.
6. Start timing. Use the NORMAL time for Water Bath canning. DO NOT PUT ON THE WEIGHT. Just let it steam. You can turn the heat down, just make sure it stays steaming hard (you will hear the water boiling inside and the latch will stay up).
7. When the time is up, turn off the burner. (Move it if you want to - I don't, because I have a heavy canner, on a glass top stove - the Presto 23qt that I have is made to be safe on glass tops.)
8. Let it cool until the safety latch drops, or until it is no longer steaming visibly.
9. Go ahead and open the canner and remove the jars. (If you are having problems with liquid loss, let the jars cool a little with the lid set on at an angle for about 10 minutes before removing the lid entirely, then let them cool for another 10 minutes before removing them from the canner.)
CAUTION: Don't use this for things that need to process for more than about 45 minutes unless you add another quart or two of water. I've done things that took 30 minutes, and it still had a lot of water left in it.
You want to make ABSOLUTELY SURE you do NOT use this as an "alternative" to pressure canning.
Not only is it just better to pressure can if you have the equipment to do so, you risk running it out of water on long steam cycles. That's bad, it can crack your jars and crack or even melt your canner - generally it will at least warp the bottom, and that IS A RISK for having the canner crack during a pressure cycle in the future.
HOW DO YOU KNOW IF IT RUNS OUT OF WATER? You won't see or hear steam coming out, you won't hear boiling, and the safety latch will drop. After a bit, you will smell the smell of hot metal (possibly combined with the smell of burning food residues if the jars have leaked any liquid) - not a nice smell to have in your kitchen!
If this happens, turn off the burner and MOVE THE CANNER off the burner, and let it cool down COMPLETELY, without disturbing it (you cannot tell how hot it is inside, and if you open the top too soon you risk cracking the jars from sudden exposure to cold air). Once it is completely cool, remove the jars, check the canner for warps or cracks, check the jars for damage, etc. If it is still usable, fill it again, but use MORE water, and try again.
IT IS MOST IMPORTANT that you DO NOT run water into the canner until it is COMPLETELY COOLED. Running water into the canner while it is as hot as it gets without water in it, can warp or crack the canner, and if there are hot jars in it, it can shatter the jars.
The chance of this happening with a normal canning run is pretty well impossible. So don't get all worried because I put this in there. I'm just putting it in there for those who might use it improperly, or for those who wonder what the chances are that it might run out of water and what would happen if it did!
If food residues get burned onto the canner, it may stain it badly, and you may need to scrub it with an SOS pad, or fill it with water to the top of the stains, and then add a few cups of vinegar to the pot and boil it for a while.
Now... If this has EVER happened, you'll need to watch the canner in the future, and be alert for progressive warping of the bottom of the canner.
If the canner has run dry at any time, the heat on the bottom is higher than normal during the disaster, so the bottom can kind of start to round out a bit instead of being flat. If that appears to be happening, it is not safe to use it anymore as a pressure canner.
There is a small possibility that it could crack during a pressure canning run if it has warped due to abnormallly high heat exposure, and this is no small thing. Also listen for atypical sounds during pressure canning runs, and respond quickly (this is something we usually do anyway, it is kind of instinctive).
That's a lot more detailed than I'd normally be, but hopefully that will answer all the questions anyone has.
I've been doing this for probably 40 years, since I started doing it when I was in my teens in my mother's house. I've never had an unfortunate episode with it, in any way whatsoever. It has been a very efficient and easy way to waterbath high acid foods.
Apple Scrap Uses
I LOVE fresh pressed apple cider. The sweet full flavor of undiluted apple cider, with nothing but natural flavor! I think it is one of my favorite things in the whole world. Right up there with pizza, and chocolate. And it is one of the things that helps my kidneys and liver function better when I get over-toxed by fragrances or chemicals.
So I got 10 lbs of apples. I do not have a real apple press, I have only a little centrifuge juicer, ironically and rather sadly named "Little Giant", because while it IS little, it is in no way a Giant. It was made to make a cup of juice in the morning, with no thought to the fact that the little beast is pretty difficult to clean for just one glass of juice! So I wear it out juicing 10 or 20 lbs of apples at a time, emptying the cup every two lbs, and scraping out the built-up pulp every four lbs. It is a slow task if you have a lot to do.
The PULP. All that pulp. Not quite devoid of juice, because the juicer, like all constant feed centrifuge juicers, spits out a stream of pulpy juice over here, and glops of juicy pulp over there. Not as efficient as it could be, by any means.
Still, it is all I have, and all I am likely to have until I can possibly afford the $250 juicer I REALLY want.
It bothered me so much, all that waste. Maybe it would not have if I had a REAL juicer that really extracted all the juice and left behind a sort of sawdusty stuff that smelled faintly of apples. But this pulp in this juicer was too much to be comfortable tossing to the chickens, the apples just cost too much for that.
So I came up with a plan.
The peels and seeds, and bits of sharp core, that pass through the juicer when you run apples whole, prevent me using the pulp for any kind of people food. So I determined that I MUST peel and core the apples first. It is more work, but if I can get an extra batch of food from it for the effort, then it is worth it! Let the chickens and the rabbits have the cores and peels! They enjoy them. I do not!
So I peeled and cored the next batch of apples, determined that I would make something of the resulting pulp. The juice was, as always sublime. Enough to last me a few days. It wasn't enough to can it. But it sure was good!
The pulp comes out with a few thin slices of apple in it, here and there, but it is mostly a fine pulp. Kind of smooth and finely mushy in texture. And utterly flavorless. So whatever I did, I was going to have to add some FLAVOR.
First, I tried making apple butter from it. To do that, I had to add a LOT of water to it, to get it stirrable, so it could cook down - it was simply too thick to do so without burning otherwise. The key to a really good apple butter isn't in the seasonings or the sugar, it is in letting it cook down and carmelize to a nice dark color. THEN you add the cinnamon and nutmeg, and THEN you add the sugar, and then it jells and is the most amazing flavored stuff in the world!
Once the juicing pulp had cooked down and darkened, I tried just adding vanilla and cinnamon and sugar, figuring the vanilla might help spark the flavor some. But the lack of apple flavor in it caused the vanilla to sort of get lost. It was sweet, and you could taste the cinnamon, but not the apple. It was the least impressive apple butter I've ever made. I think a little lemon juice would possibly perk it up, or maybe some apple juice concentrate, but that seems rather contradictory since I already removed the juice, and want to use it without having to put it back! Lemon juice will likely be the best I can do.
I have concluded, after two tries, that apple butter made from the pulp from juicing is always going to be pathetic. A mere shadow of the rich apple butteriness that whole apples produce.
So I had to find another way to use them! And I have finally found it!
I stirred a little sugar into the pulp, along with a good amount of good quality cinnamon. Then I added a dollop of vanilla. The funny thing is, I started exactly the same way, but this, this was different, and it worked. I wanted a little lemon juice, to perk it up a bit, but did not have any, and I thought the lime juice that I DID have might have a bit too much of its own personality to work well, so I left it out.
Parchment paper went onto the trays of my food dehydrator. (Tinfoil, teflon sheets, fruit roll trays, or anything else like that, would also work - just make sure you leave room for air circulation around the edges of it when you put it on the tray.)
The glop (there really is no other word for the darkening mass) was spread in rough rectangles onto the parchment paper. I spread it about 1/8" thick. It is fairly stiff, so it really has to be mashed down to spread it.
Dried that for about 8 hours - the new dehydrator is fast, and by the end of that time, which ended in the middle of the night, it was pretty dry. The next morning I fired it up again for about 2 hours to make sure it was dry, and to soften it a bit so it was easier to remove from the trays.
Apple leather. The flavor is mild, but it is sweetly cinnamon and fragrantly vanilla. I still think that a splash of lemon juice - just a splash! would brighten the flavor and intensify it a bit. But this worked!
Where the butter ended up just being LAME, the leather concentrated all the flavors more, and the cinnamon and vanilla carried it nicely.
This time, when peeling and coring the apples, I separated the peels and the cores. I really don't know why it never occurred to me to do that before - perhaps because we were feeding the peels to the rabbits, and the cores to the chickens, I just never thought of doing anything more with the peels. But this time I separated them out.
The peels were also put onto the dryer trays, and I dried them along with the leather. I will store those for rabbit fruit for the rest of the winter. But it occurred to me that I could make them into a treat also.
Next time, I'll sprinkle the peels with cinnamon and sugar before I put them in the dehydrator. Hubs will eat them - he likes cinnamon and sugar, and was actually snitching apple peels from the tray as I was prepping them to dry them. If I give him an excuse, he will eat them after they are dried also.
I know a lot of people who make apple scrap vinegar, but this has never appealed to me (I may have to do it anyway, due to a lack of apples).
For one thing, it isn't REAL apple cider vinegar, it is just a watered down second rate version. It ISN'T in fact "historic" at all, but something invented in more recent times by people who no longer press cider, and for whom fresh unpasteurized cider is something never seen. Real apple cider vinegar was the result of massive cider pressings in the fall, and the cider was stored in barrels where it became progressively harder through several months, then gradually converted to vinegar. Apple cider vinegar was the inevitable result from the hard cider that had not been used quickly enough, which had gone to vinegar by late winter or early spring (depending on temps). It is deeper, richer, and a lot more acidic. I like what is genuine.
I have never made apple scrap vinegar and don't really want to. But I understand why people do. It is what they CAN do, and may end up being all I can do also. But you only need so much vinegar. Even if you are making pickles each year, you still only need a few gallons. There are a lot more apple scraps than what you need for that if you are making applesauce, butter, jelly, pie filling, canned apples, spiced apples, and apple juice!
So then there is apple scrap jelly. Really all you are doing is extracting the juice from the scraps. Cooking them in water until you have a really watered down juice, and then evaporating the water until you have some juice around the scraps. Strain and press out the rest, and toss the pulp to the chickens.
(The chickens sure are getting the short end of the stick here! With each level of frugality, the chickens end up with less and less. When we must though, we must.)
But you also only need so much jelly, and jelly requries pectin (which is expensive if you buy it), because apple scrap jelly, in spite of the high concentration of natural pectin from the peels, still has insufficient pectin to jell without some added pectin. It will candy, but it generally won't jell. (Apple jelly was traditionally made from crab apples, which ARE high in pectin.)
So you COULD also make candy. Just leave out the pectin, add a LOT of sugar (as much sugar as you have juice, once the juice tastes like juice and not like watery juice), and cook it down until it reaches a hard crack stage. Then pour it out into molds, or flat and cut it while it is still barely warm (with a buttered knife). A little cinnamon would probably make it more flavorful.
In between the juice and candy stage, you get syrup. So if you want apple syrup (which you can substitute for honey), you start it just like candy, but cook it to just less than a soft ball stage - to the point where if you drop some on a cold plate, it will only run slowly when the plate is tipped. You know what pancake syrup does on a plate - THAT!
This fall when we were processing apples, we had days when we had buckets full of apple scraps, which went to the animals - far more than they could eat right away. By preserving some of this, they don't get overloaded on them one week, with none for months to follow.
Next year, I'll be doing secondary processing on more of the apples, as long as I have the energy and equipment available to do it (this year I ran out of crock pots!). I'm also going to experiment with more ways to use the scraps, to make them into either tasty bits for us to use, or into stored feed for our animals.
Please email us with your tricks for using apple scraps, and I'll add them here if they are something that would appeal to other people!
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