Heritage Preserving

Traditional preservation does not actually include canning, but we have included it here, because of the value for preserving seasonal harvests in a simple to use manner.

  • We DRY a lot of foods. This is probably the most common traditional preservation method, being used for fruits, vegetables, and meats, and naturally occurring with grains, nuts, and legumes. We don't freeze dry, it is neither economical, nor efficient, and we simply do not have the time or money to fuss with it.
  • We FREEZE a lot of foods. Also a traditional method, freezing was used by northern civilizations to store some foods through the winter.
  • We COOL STORE some foods. The traditional is a root cellar. We use a basement, or a refrigerator, and sometimes a front or back porch area. Appropriate for potatoes, apples, cabbages, squash, onions, and other similar crops, and for smoked or cured meats.
  • We CURE, PICKLE, or CULTURE some foods. Traditionally this is why we have pickles, kraut, cheese, ham, sausage, and other foods that are treated with salt or aged in a way that encourages beneficial microbial growth.
  • We SMOKE some foods, in combination with drying or curing. Another longstanding traditional preservation method.
  • We DO SOME oil or fat pack foods, but are careful about what we do, because some either do not store long enough to be worth the trouble, or they have too high a risk of deadly peripheral contamination to be worth it.
  • We CAN many foods, a lot of them pressure canned, for quick fix, grab and go meals, and to make some meats more digestible (production breed meats are hard for me to digest unless the proteins are changed by cooking processes, and high heat is one thing that works). We are careful about methods used, and pay attention to nutrient loss. We use MANY "not recommended" methods, because our experiences have taught us that the government is not the only, or even the best, arbiter of safety where food is concerned! We use recommendations from around the world, and we learn the science, and figure out WHY things are tricky, and then develop methods for compensating. Our food is good, it is safe, and it is a huge benefit to us every day.

People have been preserving and storing food for as long as they have been eating food. Healthy food preservation is part skill, and part art, but once you get going on it, it really ISN'T all that hard!

Canning Tamales - Yeah!

Canning Tamales!

First, the education part. Because if you don't GET this part, you can have a disaster.

Tamales EXPAND during the canning process.

It is VERY important that you not over-fill jars, and that you pay attention to the headspace required. If you have too little headspace, the tamales will push out of the jar, either causing a lid to bulge, or causing the corn flour to escape during processing. If the corn flour pushes out of the jar, you end up with a mess in your canner, and failed seals. The seals may LOOK good, and then pop a week or two later, when you aren't paying attention, causing loss and spoilage.

Tamales need liquid, and absorb liquid during processing or cooking. So the sauce ratios need to be followed also. You start with watery stuff, you end with sauce.

If you do it right, you get nice plump tamales in a jar, with a nice chili sauce around them. If you do it wrong, you get blown lids, messy jars and canner, and no liquid on the tamales.

This is like canning dry beans. Smart people can manage it.

Canned Tamales

(I don't know EXACTLY how much it makes, I just filled the jars until I ran out of ingredients. I got four jars and a few extra tamales to cook on the stovetop to sample.)

RECOMMEND Wide Mouth Tapered 1 1/2 Pint Jars! If you use Pint jars, you have to make REALLY short tamales.

You also need EITHER Parchment paper, OR Corn Husks. Parchment paper is a little more compact, but the softer inner corn husks will also work well.

SOAK corn husks for about half an hour in warm water when you are ready to assemble the tamales.

Ingredients:

Filling:

  • 1 lb beef (can be a solid piece, or chunks, whatever)
  • Mild peppers (such as Anaheim or green chiles) - you need about 1, cooked and mashed
  • Sprinkle of salt

Wrapper:

  • 3 cups Masa Flour (find this in the Mexican Food section, it may be called Tamale Flour, you want the Corn flour not meal)
  • Salt
  • Chili Powder (I used about 2 tsp)
  • Cayenne (optional)
  • Black pepper
  • Onion or garlic powders (optional)

Sauce:

  • 1 cup V-8 or Tomato Juice (do NOT substitute sauce it is too thick)
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 tsp chili powder
  • 1 tsp onion powder
  • 2 shakes cumin if desired
  • pinch garlic granules
  • 1/2 tsp salt

Cook the beef until it is tender and pulls apart. Shred it and add the mild pepper. Toss to mix.

Put the Masa Flour in a bowl, and add about 1 tsp salt, and 1/4 tsp pepper, and the chili powder. Add a sprinkle of cayenne if you like.

Add cold WATER to make a sticky dough. It should hold together, and you should be able to spread it out flat.

NOTE: You want the Masa Dough to be STICKY, and SPREADABLE. If you can handle it or knead it like bread dough, it is TOO DRY. You should need to spread the dough with a spatula or knife, or the back of a spoon. It handles sort of like brownie batter. If it is too dry, it can cause the jar lids to pop because of the expansion of the increased flour amount.

MIX the sauce ingredients together - I used a jar so I could pour it into the canning jars.

If using Parchment Paper, CUT pieces about 6" X 6" (or a smidge larger).

Assembly:

Lay out a piece of parchment paper or a corn husk. Press out some of the dough in a rectangle about 3" X 4", in one corner of the husk (on the wide end) or paper (go 3"X3" if you are using pint jars). The dough should be about 1/4" thick, or a little less.

Put a bit of beef down the center, the long way on the paper or husk.

Roll the tamale up (so you get a 4" long tamale for larger jars, or 3" for pint jars), and fold the bottom end of the paper or husk up.

Place the tamale into the jar.

IMPORTANT!!!

Make your tamales narrow!

They need to be about 1" in diameter when finished! Do NOT go bigger! You can play around with the thickness of the dough (thinner dough) to get more meat in it if you like, but don't make a bigger tamale.

Place FOUR tamales into the jar. NO MORE! They will expand to fill the jar! There should be lots of wiggle room around them.

Make SURE that you have the FULL AMOUNT of space above the top of the tamales! This is vital!

1 1/2 Pint Jars - 2" headspace above the top of the tamales.

1 Pint Jars - 1 1/2" headspace above the top of the tamales.

They GROW! They will expand during canning, and then shrink back down just a little, you will need every bit of headspace.

FILL the jar with sauce, up to the little seam line just below the bottom lip on the jar - you need a full 1" headspace for the sauce. The tamales should be covered in sauce. (Yes, the headspace for the tamales is DIFFERENT than the headspace for the sauce.)

Process jars in a Pressure Canner, for 90 minutes for pint and a half jars, or 75 minutes for pints. Standard pressure adjusted for altitude.

If you are feeling Festive, you may press 1 olive into the meat in the middle of each tamale.

Enjoy!

WARNING!!!

DO NOT USE home milled corn flour for this! Use ONLY commercial corn masa flour. Home milled will have the germ in it, and this means YOU WILL GET PERFRINGENS food poisoning in the jars. You can SMELL it, and it does change the appearance of the food if it gets really bad, so killing yourself with it is pretty difficult to do, but you don't want to waste food this good by using an ingredient that is guaranteed to spoil.

This risk is VERY LOW for commercially milled corn flour, and EVEN WITH HOME MILLED, perfringens of this type takes about 3 months to grow sufficient to be detectable in the food, and it is NOT DANGEROUS unless it really has time to go to town on the food. This is the SAME kind of perfringens bacteria that causes Salt Rising Bread to rise, and has a cheesy odor when it is fresh, but goes to gray and nasty when it overgrows.

A Coddiwomple Farm Original Recipe!

 
SHORTCUT METHOD

You can use commercial frozen tamales and can them instead of homemade! Who knew?

Now, this kind of Tamale is already PARTIALLY cooked, but not fully. They are always kind of crumbly instead of firm like they should be.

They only need 1 1/2" headspace above them. They WILL grow up and out of the corn husks. They should JUST fill the jar when they are fully canned.

So...

  • 6 or 8 THAWED frozen tamales (the large ones)
  • 1 large can Tomato juice, seasoned as instructed above.

Put TWO tamales in each jar.

Distribute seasoned juice between them. It won't entirely fill the jars.

Add water to the bottom of the lip on the jar.

Pressure can for meat time.

Using a Pressure Canner as a Steam Canner

I only own one canner. It is a good one, a Presto 23 qt Pressure Canner, which is large enough to double decker pint jars, and even tall enough to can half gallons, or to use as a water bath canner with the actual recommended water coverage.

This canner does everything. But I don't use it as a WB canner. Too much water, too much time heating the water, more of a hassle filling the thing.

I use it as a steam canner. (For those who are unaware, steam canners ARE approved for canning in the US by "official" sources. Look it up, I don't have time to cite sources.)

A Steam Canner is used in place of a Water Bath canner. It uses hot steam, instead of hot water, to heat the jars and process them. Steam canners use the SAME TIMES as Water Bath canners. Using your Pressure Canner as a steam canner can save you the cost of the steam canner, and you can even avoid the cost of a water bath canner also if you like.

To use a pressure canner as a steam canner, follow this procedure:

1. Add 1 more quart of water to the bottom than you would add for pressure canning. For my canner, this means 4 quarts instead of 3 quarts. You need a little more water since it will steam the whole time, instead of having the steam contained. In all the times I've done it, 4 quarts has been more than enough. See the note below for cautions.



2. Put the jars in. Stack them if you want. Water does NOT need to even touch them (if you are stacking), because they will be surrounded by steam that is actually hotter than the water.

3. Put the lid on like you normally would, lock it into place.

4. Turn on the heat. I start it on high.

5. Wait until the safety latch pops up. (The safety latch will not pop up until there is sufficient steam pressure inside to lift it, and it won't do that until all the air is exhausted, so it is an accurate indicator for starting the time for steam canning, or putting the weight on for pressure canning.) If your canner does not have a safety latch, then wait until it is steaming hard through the vent.

6. Start timing. Use the NORMAL time for Water Bath canning. DO NOT PUT ON THE WEIGHT. Just let it steam. You can turn the heat down, just make sure it stays steaming hard (you will hear the water boiling inside and the latch will stay up).

7. When the time is up, turn off the burner. (Move it if you want to - I don't, because I have a heavy canner, on a glass top stove - the Presto 23qt that I have is made to be safe on glass tops.)

8. Let it cool until the safety latch drops, or until it is no longer steaming visibly.

9. Go ahead and open the canner and remove the jars. (If you are having problems with liquid loss, let the jars cool a little with the lid set on at an angle for about 10 minutes before removing the lid entirely, then let them cool for another 10 minutes before removing them from the canner.)

CAUTION: Don't use this for things that need to process for more than about 45 minutes unless you add another quart or two of water. I've done things that took 30 minutes, and it still had a lot of water left in it.

You want to make ABSOLUTELY SURE you do NOT use this as an "alternative" to pressure canning.

Not only is it just better to pressure can if you have the equipment to do so, you risk running it out of water on long steam cycles. That's bad, it can crack your jars and crack or even melt your canner - generally it will at least warp the bottom, and that IS A RISK for having the canner crack during a pressure cycle in the future.

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF IT RUNS OUT OF WATER? You won't see or hear steam coming out, you won't hear boiling, and the safety latch will drop. After a bit, you will smell the smell of hot metal (possibly combined with the smell of burning food residues if the jars have leaked any liquid) - not a nice smell to have in your kitchen!

If this happens, turn off the burner and MOVE THE CANNER off the burner, and let it cool down COMPLETELY, without disturbing it (you cannot tell how hot it is inside, and if you open the top too soon you risk cracking the jars from sudden exposure to cold air). Once it is completely cool, remove the jars, check the canner for warps or cracks, check the jars for damage, etc. If it is still usable, fill it again, but use MORE water, and try again.

IT IS MOST IMPORTANT that you DO NOT run water into the canner until it is COMPLETELY COOLED. Running water into the canner while it is as hot as it gets without water in it, can warp or crack the canner, and if there are hot jars in it, it can shatter the jars.

The chance of this happening with a normal canning run is pretty well impossible. So don't get all worried because I put this in there. I'm just putting it in there for those who might use it improperly, or for those who wonder what the chances are that it might run out of water and what would happen if it did!

If food residues get burned onto the canner, it may stain it badly, and you may need to scrub it with an SOS pad, or fill it with water to the top of the stains, and then add a few cups of vinegar to the pot and boil it for a while.

Now... If this has EVER happened, you'll need to watch the canner in the future, and be alert for progressive warping of the bottom of the canner.

If the canner has run dry at any time, the heat on the bottom is higher than normal during the disaster, so the bottom can kind of start to round out a bit instead of being flat. If that appears to be happening, it is not safe to use it anymore as a pressure canner.

There is a small possibility that it could crack during a pressure canning run if it has warped due to abnormallly high heat exposure, and this is no small thing. Also listen for atypical sounds during pressure canning runs, and respond quickly (this is something we usually do anyway, it is kind of instinctive).

That's a lot more detailed than I'd normally be, but hopefully that will answer all the questions anyone has.

I've been doing this for probably 40 years, since I started doing it when I was in my teens in my mother's house. I've never had an unfortunate episode with it, in any way whatsoever. It has been a very efficient and easy way to waterbath high acid foods.

Apple Scrap Uses

I LOVE fresh pressed apple cider. The sweet full flavor of undiluted apple cider, with nothing but natural flavor! I think it is one of my favorite things in the whole world. Right up there with pizza, and chocolate. And it is one of the things that helps my kidneys and liver function better when I get over-toxed by fragrances or chemicals.

So I got 10 lbs of apples. I do not have a real apple press, I have only a little centrifuge juicer, ironically and rather sadly named "Little Giant", because while it IS little, it is in no way a Giant. It was made to make a cup of juice in the morning, with no thought to the fact that the little beast is pretty difficult to clean for just one glass of juice! So I wear it out juicing 10 or 20 lbs of apples at a time, emptying the cup every two lbs, and scraping out the built-up pulp every four lbs. It is a slow task if you have a lot to do.

The PULP. All that pulp. Not quite devoid of juice, because the juicer, like all constant feed centrifuge juicers, spits out a stream of pulpy juice over here, and glops of juicy pulp over there. Not as efficient as it could be, by any means.

Still, it is all I have, and all I am likely to have until I can possibly afford the $250 juicer I REALLY want.

It bothered me so much, all that waste. Maybe it would not have if I had a REAL juicer that really extracted all the juice and left behind a sort of sawdusty stuff that smelled faintly of apples. But this pulp in this juicer was too much to be comfortable tossing to the chickens, the apples just cost too much for that.



So I came up with a plan.

The peels and seeds, and bits of sharp core, that pass through the juicer when you run apples whole, prevent me using the pulp for any kind of people food. So I determined that I MUST peel and core the apples first. It is more work, but if I can get an extra batch of food from it for the effort, then it is worth it! Let the chickens and the rabbits have the cores and peels! They enjoy them. I do not!

So I peeled and cored the next batch of apples, determined that I would make something of the resulting pulp. The juice was, as always sublime. Enough to last me a few days. It wasn't enough to can it. But it sure was good!

The pulp comes out with a few thin slices of apple in it, here and there, but it is mostly a fine pulp. Kind of smooth and finely mushy in texture. And utterly flavorless. So whatever I did, I was going to have to add some FLAVOR.

First, I tried making apple butter from it. To do that, I had to add a LOT of water to it, to get it stirrable, so it could cook down - it was simply too thick to do so without burning otherwise. The key to a really good apple butter isn't in the seasonings or the sugar, it is in letting it cook down and carmelize to a nice dark color. THEN you add the cinnamon and nutmeg, and THEN you add the sugar, and then it jells and is the most amazing flavored stuff in the world!



Once the juicing pulp had cooked down and darkened, I tried just adding vanilla and cinnamon and sugar, figuring the vanilla might help spark the flavor some. But the lack of apple flavor in it caused the vanilla to sort of get lost. It was sweet, and you could taste the cinnamon, but not the apple. It was the least impressive apple butter I've ever made. I think a little lemon juice would possibly perk it up, or maybe some apple juice concentrate, but that seems rather contradictory since I already removed the juice, and want to use it without having to put it back! Lemon juice will likely be the best I can do.

I have concluded, after two tries, that apple butter made from the pulp from juicing is always going to be pathetic. A mere shadow of the rich apple butteriness that whole apples produce.

So I had to find another way to use them! And I have finally found it!

I stirred a little sugar into the pulp, along with a good amount of good quality cinnamon. Then I added a dollop of vanilla. The funny thing is, I started exactly the same way, but this, this was different, and it worked. I wanted a little lemon juice, to perk it up a bit, but did not have any, and I thought the lime juice that I DID have might have a bit too much of its own personality to work well, so I left it out.

Parchment paper went onto the trays of my food dehydrator. (Tinfoil, teflon sheets, fruit roll trays, or anything else like that, would also work - just make sure you leave room for air circulation around the edges of it when you put it on the tray.)



The glop (there really is no other word for the darkening mass) was spread in rough rectangles onto the parchment paper. I spread it about 1/8" thick. It is fairly stiff, so it really has to be mashed down to spread it.

Dried that for about 8 hours - the new dehydrator is fast, and by the end of that time, which ended in the middle of the night, it was pretty dry. The next morning I fired it up again for about 2 hours to make sure it was dry, and to soften it a bit so it was easier to remove from the trays.

Apple leather. The flavor is mild, but it is sweetly cinnamon and fragrantly vanilla. I still think that a splash of lemon juice - just a splash! would brighten the flavor and intensify it a bit. But this worked!

Where the butter ended up just being LAME, the leather concentrated all the flavors more, and the cinnamon and vanilla carried it nicely.

This time, when peeling and coring the apples, I separated the peels and the cores. I really don't know why it never occurred to me to do that before - perhaps because we were feeding the peels to the rabbits, and the cores to the chickens, I just never thought of doing anything more with the peels. But this time I separated them out.

The peels were also put onto the dryer trays, and I dried them along with the leather. I will store those for rabbit fruit for the rest of the winter. But it occurred to me that I could make them into a treat also.



Next time, I'll sprinkle the peels with cinnamon and sugar before I put them in the dehydrator. Hubs will eat them - he likes cinnamon and sugar, and was actually snitching apple peels from the tray as I was prepping them to dry them. If I give him an excuse, he will eat them after they are dried also.

I know a lot of people who make apple scrap vinegar, but this has never appealed to me (I may have to do it anyway, due to a lack of apples).

For one thing, it isn't REAL apple cider vinegar, it is just a watered down second rate version. It ISN'T in fact "historic" at all, but something invented in more recent times by people who no longer press cider, and for whom fresh unpasteurized cider is something never seen. Real apple cider vinegar was the result of massive cider pressings in the fall, and the cider was stored in barrels where it became progressively harder through several months, then gradually converted to vinegar. Apple cider vinegar was the inevitable result from the hard cider that had not been used quickly enough, which had gone to vinegar by late winter or early spring (depending on temps). It is deeper, richer, and a lot more acidic. I like what is genuine.

I have never made apple scrap vinegar and don't really want to. But I understand why people do. It is what they CAN do, and may end up being all I can do also. But you only need so much vinegar. Even if you are making pickles each year, you still only need a few gallons. There are a lot more apple scraps than what you need for that if you are making applesauce, butter, jelly, pie filling, canned apples, spiced apples, and apple juice!



So then there is apple scrap jelly. Really all you are doing is extracting the juice from the scraps. Cooking them in water until you have a really watered down juice, and then evaporating the water until you have some juice around the scraps. Strain and press out the rest, and toss the pulp to the chickens.

(The chickens sure are getting the short end of the stick here! With each level of frugality, the chickens end up with less and less. When we must though, we must.)

But you also only need so much jelly, and jelly requries pectin (which is expensive if you buy it), because apple scrap jelly, in spite of the high concentration of natural pectin from the peels, still has insufficient pectin to jell without some added pectin. It will candy, but it generally won't jell. (Apple jelly was traditionally made from crab apples, which ARE high in pectin.)

So you COULD also make candy. Just leave out the pectin, add a LOT of sugar (as much sugar as you have juice, once the juice tastes like juice and not like watery juice), and cook it down until it reaches a hard crack stage. Then pour it out into molds, or flat and cut it while it is still barely warm (with a buttered knife). A little cinnamon would probably make it more flavorful.



In between the juice and candy stage, you get syrup. So if you want apple syrup (which you can substitute for honey), you start it just like candy, but cook it to just less than a soft ball stage - to the point where if you drop some on a cold plate, it will only run slowly when the plate is tipped. You know what pancake syrup does on a plate - THAT!

This fall when we were processing apples, we had days when we had buckets full of apple scraps, which went to the animals - far more than they could eat right away. By preserving some of this, they don't get overloaded on them one week, with none for months to follow.

Next year, I'll be doing secondary processing on more of the apples, as long as I have the energy and equipment available to do it (this year I ran out of crock pots!). I'm also going to experiment with more ways to use the scraps, to make them into either tasty bits for us to use, or into stored feed for our animals.

Please email us with your tricks for using apple scraps, and I'll add them here if they are something that would appeal to other people!

What Do I Do With Oranges and Peels

The suggestions below can be applied to any citrus fruit, including Oranges, Sour Oranges (Bitter Oranges, or Trifolate Oranges), Blood Oranges, Limes, Lemons, Grapefruit, Pommelos (though you only want the outer rind in the peel recipes with these), etc.

Oranges do not dry well, they tend to go all to sawdust! But there are other ways to preserve them that result in enjoyable treats.

The oranges can be juiced, and the juice may be canned.

Oranges can be canned. Cut off the peel, just inside the backs of the slices, then work the slices out of the membrane. Can in syrup, or juice a few and can in natural juice. Pineapple juice also works well in place of syrup.

Oranges may be candied. You can do the orange slices without peels, or you can just slice the whole orange with peels, and candy them, the same as you would orange peel (though you skip the rinsing).

You can scrape off the zest, dry it, and use it for baking, in which case you throw away the bitter parts. It can be ground and dried for long term storage.



You can candy the entire peel, in which case the bitter parts get candied also and you prepare it in a way that gets rid of the bitterness. Candied orange peels can be used in place of orange zest in recipes, they can be dipped in chocolate for an elegant gift or treat, and they can be enjoyed plain. You can replace the water in the candy recipe with orange juice for a stronger flavor, or with pineapple juice for a tropical burst.

The syrup from the candied peels can be used to add to jam, or to use for sweetening tea or other beverages.

You can dry peels, chop them up, and use them in potpourri.

You can cut off the zest in large chunks, dry it, and use that for spiced cider blend.

And of course, you can make marmalade with the whole orange.

Oranges are one of the more flexible fruits, and the whole orange can be used for some things.

Notice

The information on this site is presented for informational purposes only, and consists of the opinions and experiences of the site authors. It is not to be construed as medical advice or to be used to diagnose or treat any illness. Seek the assistance of a medical professional in implementing any nutritional changes with the goal of treating any medical condition. The historical and nutritional information presented here can be verified by a simple web search.

I do what I do because I understand the science behind it, and I've researched worldwide sources to verify the safety of my practices to my own satisfaction. Please do your own research, and proceed AT YOUR OWN RISK.

 

 


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